Kelzang Dorjee
Bhutan only opened to the outside world in 1974. Yet, one region remained closed for decades afterwards, and is one of the Himalayas' best-kept secrets.
It's 05:00 and 100 people have gathered in the courtyard of Lhakhang Karpo, a 7th-Century monastery at the base of three sacred mountains in Bhutan's secluded Haa Valley.
Incense plumes swirl in the mist. Pink rice porridge with Sichuan pepper steams in vats. Low, thrumming chants hum through me. Then: drums. A blast of dungchen trumpets. Crackling, cawing victory calls and – pow!
This isn't your typical Buddhist festival. I'm at the Ap Chundu Lhapsoel, a 10km procession held every 1 November in honour of the valley's warrior deity who helped locals defeat invading Tibetans in the 17th Century. It's the nation's longest chipdrel (ceremonial procession) – and the only one where tourists are welcomed – yet few visitors have ever heard of it. In a way, the festival is a metaphor for Haa itself.
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